The tour of Oltrepò Pavese also makes me immerse myself in the richness of the wine in the area. Just looking at the beautiful and overwhelmingly green landscape that is a mix of forests and vines makes me long for wine. Apparently, this is Lombardy’s greatest wine region, however little known except by the northern Italians themselves. The showpiece of Oltrepò Pavese is the Pinot Nero grape. It is normally a difficult grape variety to grow, but it seems to thrive very well in these hills. The red Pinot Nero wines are impressive, but also the ‘spumante metodo classico’ (sparkling wines) made from the Pinot Nero grape are top notch. The bubbles are still made according to a 19th century procedure, namely by gradually turning them upside down.
Another pride is the Buttafuoco wine. It is a firm, ruby red wine that can only be produced here in a limited geographical area.
Recommended by my guide, I visit the wine estate Tenuta Travaglino in Calvignano, where Cristina Cerri Comi is waiting for me. She explains that Travaglino is the oldest winery in the Oltrepò Pavese area. Today they cultivate more than 80 hectares of vineyards and work with the most representative grape varieties of the area, namely Pinot Noir and Riesling Renano. They make classic red wines as well as sparkling white and rosé wines.
“The Travaglino estate in Calvignano was founded around the 12th century,” says Cristina. The courtyard of the estate is beautiful and the cellars where the wine is aged have been very tastefully renovated. “In 1868 the wine estate was bought by the Milanese knight Vincenzo Comi, my great-great-great grandfather. The estate has remained in the family all along and I am the 5th generation,” says Cristina proudly.
Tenuta Travaglino is a reference for wine in Oltrepò Pavese. To be able to taste a red pinot nero or a spumante metodo classico wine in this phenomenal place is bucket-list worthy!
Address: Località Travaglino 6, Calvignano